The Ao dai has its origins in the 18th century during the Nguyễn Dynasty. It evolved from a five-paneled aristocratic gown called "áo ngũ thân," worn by both men and women. Over time, it was refined into a more elegant and form-fitting dress, especially for women, and became a symbol of Vietnamese identity and grace.

The modern version of the Ao dai that we recognize today was influenced by French colonial fashion in the 1930s. Designer Cát Tường, also known as Le Mur, combined Western tailoring with traditional Vietnamese garments, creating a tighter, more flattering silhouette while preserving cultural aesthetics.